Ngoalong Lau Direct

: A half-submerged gate that controls irrigation to an old textile mill. Locals call it Cổng Lau (Lau’s Gate). Visit in the dry season (February to April) to see the ceramic inlays depicting water buffalo reading French newspapers—a classic Lau joke.

His life asks us a question we are still unequipped to answer: The answer, given the fragility of his remaining works, may be "barely." But the attempt itself—the audacity of Ngoalong Lau to imagine a column that serves two masters and belongs to neither—is perhaps the most enduring art of all. Ngoalong Lau